Unless you have been hiding out in the mountains away from civilization, you will have heard that August 21, 2017, is the day of the Great American Eclipse. The ‘Path of Totality’ or ‘POT” starts on the Oregon Coast and stretches its way through the …
I am currently in Kansas City for a week. The reason: work. Now, packing for business travel is very different than packing for a personal trip. In general, it requires more clothes. Luckily, I work for a very casual company and the dress code is …
Lucky for us, we have both visited all fifty states and have become members of the all fifty states club. We both had a very strong start independently at checking off the states, but when we became friends, we made a couple trips to finish things up. This post is about our efforts to join the all fifty states club part 1. Go here to read part 2 and here to read part 3.
Deciding what counts to be able to check off a state on your list is a matter of personal preference. Some people run a marathon (crazy) or climb the highest mountain (my brother) or visit the state capitol building; the list goes on and on. It really is up to you to decide how you want to define it, although pretty much everyone agrees that a layover at an airport shouldn’t count.
For me, I decided that I had to have done something or seen something specific in that state to count it. The list is pretty random, but if you are looking for things to do so you can check off a new state, you might want to try some of them out.
Alabama: Unclaimed Baggage Store
Have you ever left something on an airplane and wondered what happened to it after you exited the plane, never to see it again? Well, all the forgotten books, headphones, and sweaters go to rest is a strange little store in northern Alabama called Unclaimed Baggage. We had a good time browsing through the shelves of random goods, but I couldn’t help feeling a little sad for all of the lost treasures and the people who looked all over for them, to no avail.
Alaska: Denali
Alaska is one of my favorite states. I spent two glorious summers there avoiding real life before and after graduate school. It’s pretty hard to pick out just one experience there, but I would highly recommend taking a helicopter ride in the Denali National Park area. You’ll be able to see for miles and miles and get swept away by the white mountain peaks and blue water of the glacier pools.
Helicopters and glaciers.
Arizona: Route 66
This stretch of the iconic Route 66 is pretty rad–you’ll drive through the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park. Depending on the time of day and weather, the Painted Desert might be all sorts of colors. When we drove through, the red in the sand contrasted fantastically with the bright blue sky. Petrified Forest National Park is chock full of pieces of, you guessed it, petrified wood. You want to make sure not to take any home as souvenirs though. The Park Headquarters gets pieces sent to them in the mail every day from people who have picked up a piece of wood and brought it home, only to have their life take a turn for the worse. It’s bad juju to steal a piece, and the only way to reverse the curse is to send it back to it’s rightful home.
Arkansas: the booming metropolis of…Pine Bluff?
When B and I were making a grand loop of the Southern States, we spent the night visiting my cousins in a suburb of Little Rock called Pine Bluff. We took a tour of the town and saw my cousin’s university. It wasn’t an earth-shattering visit to the state, but I did (re)learn an important travel lesson: after a few weeks of go, go, go, it is really nice to just stop and take it easy. And eating a home-cooked meal after all the restaurants and fast food places was amazing!
California: the Motherland
I have had a lot of experiences in California. I was born there. My parents and grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins, all pretty much live in California. I have put in a lot of time making the drive from B-town across Donner Summit and into the Sacramento Valley. But if I’m picking experiences that readers might be interested in, I would probably have to go with the Northern California coast. This water is pretty cold, so you might not want to go swimming. But man, is it pretty. There’s a street named after my family in the town of Mendocino which, if you visit, you might just recognize as the setting for the “Murder, She Wrote” television series. (Maine, my eye.)
NorCal Coast is fierce
Colorado: Musicfest at Steamboat Springs, CO
Imagine skiing all day and watching concerts all night. Now imagine doing that with about 40 bands and 6,000 (mainly) drunk Texans. It is a party. After two years of attending the craziness, B and I decided we couldn’t keep up with the shenanigans. (We had a REALLY good time those two years, though!)
Skiing in Steamboat Springs, CO, is epic. Cold, but epic.
Connecticut: Mystic Seaport
I had fond memories of watching “Mystic Pizza” when I was younger (although to be honest, I don’t remember the plot at all). So when I was in Connecticut, I decided to go to the town of Mystic. The Seaport is the largest maritime museum in the U.S. and there are lots of cool ships you can check out. Ironically, I didn’t eat pizza while I was in town.
Delaware: well…
B and I both needed to visit this tiny little (2nd smallest) state. We purposefully got train tickets in and out of Dover, but when we got there we didn’t actually see that much we wanted to do. We walked along a riverfront and explored a bustling food market. After a stop at a brewery, we loaded back up and headed out again.
Florida: Benvenido a Miami
On the way to Ecuador, B and I decided to stop for a few days in Miami (because why not?). Our shuttle dropped us off at the hotel on Miami South Beach around 2:00 a.m., but you wouldn’t have guessed it was that time by the number of people milling around, eating, drinking and looking all fancy. Talk about not fitting in! The next day we spent chilling on the white sand and swimming in the warm water (and picking up a Cubano for B). Funny thing: Miami felt just as foreign to us and Ecuador did, once we got there.
Georgia: Savannah
You know when you have an idea about something and when you get there, it just doesn’t live up to what you had imagined? Well, that did not happen when I visited Savannah. There is a main road that runs from downtown into a residential area with huge mansions, and when you walk down it the sun is blocked by gigantic moss-covered trees lining the street. I could practically see Kevin Spacey walking around in “The Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.” Actually, I’m pretty sure we saw the house where that was set.
Savannah’s evocative scenery. Cue the mood music.
Hawaii: Mustangs on the Coastline
Hawaii was the last of my 50 states I visited and I wanted to go out with a bang. So, B and I opted to splurge and we rented a Mustang convertible for our week on the Big Island. If that sounds too warm, I have three words for you: air-conditioned seats. We put down the roof, cranked up the ac on our bums and had a fantastic time feeling like ballers.
Idaho: Ah, home
One of my favorite things about my hometown is that the foothills border Boise. Outsiders might think they are ugly and brown. (To be fair, they are. Boise is in a desert, after all.) But when I look at them I see hiking and mountain biking and freedom from my cares, all about five minutes from downtown.
My nephew and I hiking in the foothills. There’s little Boise in the background.
Illinois: Beantown
On the way to Eastern Europe, B, C and I stopped off in Chicago to visit some of our friends who had moved there to attend school. We had a great time and our hosts were so wonderful. We walked across the river that gets turned green in March, ate tapas at a hip restaurant, saw the “Adventures in Babysitting” building, and rode rented bikes along Lake Michigan. All in all, it was a great vacation on the way to a great vacation.
Indiana: New Harmony
When traveling anywhere with my dad, I’m sure to get off the beaten path and see things most people have never heard of. Such was the case in Indiana when we visited the town of New Harmony. This town was founded twice by two different groups of people trying to live communally in the 1800s. Neither worked.
Pops at New Harmony
Iowa: Corn fields, motels and humidity
Iowa was a tricky state to visit. I have crossed the U.S. multiple times driving, but somehow never managed to hit up the great state of Iowa. After a lot of driving and a lot of corn fields, I ended up staying the night at a retro motel in Spencer, Iowa. For dinner, I went to one of the few restaurants open and a man from Texas bought my dinner because he thought I was a movie star…playing it cool. Sure, this experience has more to do with the story and less to do with the state. But you know what? I’m not going to forget the time I spent in Iowa.
Kansas: Ft. Leavenworth Military Prison
If you’re wondering why a military prison stands out to me during my time in Kansas, you’ve probably never tried to drive across this state. It is Capital F flat and all you’ll see for hundreds of miles is soybean plants and corn stalks. So when we took a drive around the United States Disciplinary Barracks (aka ‘Leavenworth’) facility, it left an impression. This is the place that the keeps serious offenders who have been convicted in the military courts, and it was pretty intense to see it. We visited the small cemetery where interestingly, there are unmarked graves for 14 German POWs who were convicted of crimes while being POWs.
Kentucky: Derbytown
No, I wasn’t there for the Kentucky Derby. But I did visit Churchill Downs and was impressed by the size of the place. I went on a tour of the facility and could practically smell the money that was won and lost at this racetrack. Did you know that in 2017, $200 million was wagered at this place…during one race…that lasted two minutes? Crazy.
Churchill Downs. Where’re are all the mint juleps and hats?
Well, when I started writing this post I planned on getting through all fifty states. Turns out I had a lot to say. Stay tuned to future posts to learn about the other states. This country is pretty great and has lots of amazing things to see and experience. Get out there, check off another state and get working on your own all fifty states club part 1 list.
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I grew up about an hour west of Sun Valley and Ketchum, Idaho. Yes, I saw plenty of celebrities and I made a lot of money cleaning houses in the summer. But I rarely did anything fun. I was either working or running errands, and the community vibe always felt a little pretentious to me. It was not until I moved away that I began to appreciate everything the Wood River Valley has to offer. I still think it is a bit pretentious, but there is no denying its beauty and what it has to offer. I also happen to find it a great micro trip or girls’ weekend getaway.
Twilight in Sun Valley, Idaho.
What to do in Sun Valley and Ketchum, Idaho
Below are 10 things I like to do in the Sun Valley and Ketchum, Idaho, area. There are suggestions for both winter and summer and some can be enjoyed all year long.
Eat at Johnny G’s Subshack in Ketchum
There are a lot of tasty places to eat in Ketchum and Sun Valley. However, my absolute favorite is Johnny G’s Subshack. It may not be much to look at, but this place is delicious. They cater to a local lunch crowd, so hours are limited. That means you may have to plan your schedule around them. Do it! You will not regret it.
Hit up the thrift stores
There are several thrift stores located throughout Hailey and Ketchum. The most well-known is the Gold Mine. You can find some good stuff here, but be prepared to dig. Also, be prepared for slightly higher prices. The people here know their brands and price them accordingly. You can still find an Icebreaker shirt for a fraction of the original price, but you will probably pay more than you would at your local thrift store. Of course, the chances of me even finding an Icebreaker at my local thrift store are slim. But at the Gold Mine, brand names abound. Keep in mind that they sell stuff seasonally. Do not expect to pick up skis in July. However, if you go in the winter, you can find good ski equipment for an even better price. My slightly-used Salomon ski boots are still one of my favorite purchases from the Gold Mine.
I should note that Ketchum, and to an extent Hailey, have some fun stores that are not thrift stores. Huck and Paddle is one of the most adorable stores I have ever shopped in. Just be prepared for ski resort prices.
Take in the view from Galena Summit
The drive north of Sun Valley to the top of Galena is one of my favorites. I have very fond memories of the route and the view. It is the highest summit of a highway in the Northwest and the view of the Sawtooth Mountain Range is stunning. R is cursed when it comes to seeing what Galena has to offer. If it is not some crazy storm, then it is smoke from a wild fire that blocks her view. Assuming you are not cursed like R, the drive and the view is well worth your time.
The view from Galena Summit.
Enjoy the bike path
Year round, one can (and should) enjoy the Wood River Trail. (Locals simply call it the bike path.) Sun Valley, Ketchum, Hailey and Bellevue are all connected via a paved, multi-use, non-motorized pathway. In the summer, take your bike. If it is winter, get out your cross-country skis. Enjoy part or all of the 20-mile trail. Of course, keep in mind that heading south to north will be slightly uphill.
All along the bike path you will find beautiful views like this one.
Attend a concert at Whiskey Jacques
If your favorite band is performing at Whiskey Jacques, do not hesitate. Buy a ticket and go. R and I have spent many-a-fun evenings dancing and singing our hearts out at Whiskey Jacques. I am sure it is a perfectly good bar and I know the burgers are good. But its real draw is its concerts. The venue is small so you can get up close and personal with your favorite musicians. The people watching is usually pretty good as well.
Micky Braun. Micky and the Motorcars is one of our favorite bands to see at Whiskeys.
Watch the Sun Valley Suns
Hockey is my favorite sport to watch and that love began with the Sun Valley Suns. This semi-professional team is fun to watch and the local vibe is GREAT. The new rink located in Hailey. The games here are just as enjoyable of an experience as they were at the old rink. There is a bit more seating, so that was nice. Be sure to dress warm!
Don’t miss the yard sales in Ketchum and Sun Valley
Similar to shopping at the Gold Mine and other thrift stores in Sun Valley and Ketchum, hitting up the yard sales can result in some amazing finds. This is a summertime only activity, but it can be worth getting up a little early on your weekend to see what treasures await you. I have never shopped at any celebrity’s houses. But there are enough rich folks up there selling their expensive goods for a steal to make it worth your while.
If your budget allows it, go ahead and stay at the Sun Valley Resort.
Attend a festival
The community may be small, but they put on some great festivals and events. My favorite is the Trailing of the Sheep festival. There is nothing else quite like it in the world. If opera, jazz or ballet is your thing, then there is an event or two you will enjoy. Just check out the local event calendar and then start planning your trip.
Go skiing, duh
Assuming it is winter, I recommend you hit the slopes. After all, Sun Valley is “America’s First Destination Ski Resort.” You have two options for some downhill skiing: Bald Mountain or Dollar Mountain. Baldy, as the locals call it, is the more “plush” option. It is everything you imagine when you think of skiing in Sun Valley. Dollar is where the kids ski. It is both easier and more affordable. No matter your choice, you will have a wonderful time.
Snowboarding and skiing on Baldy with friends.
If Nordic skiing is more your style, you will find trails aplenty to keep you occupied. Some you will have to pay to use, so keep that in mind.
Hiking abounds all over Sun Valley and Ketchum
As stated previously, I am not much of a hiker. I prefer trails that fall more into the “nature walk” category. But that does not mean I have never traversed the hills surrounding Sun Valley and Ketchum. The hike up Carbonate Mountain is a nice option, especially if you are a beginner. Many locals hike it every day and it has great views of Hailey. It shouldn’t take you more than an hour. You can also ride the gondola to the top of Bald Mountain, enjoy lunch at the Roundhouse Lodge, and then hit the trails. As you head north toward and into the Sawtooth Mountains, options for a more challenging hike increase. You can pretty much find any kind of hike you are looking for in this area.
Trails abound in and around Sun Valley.
Conclusion
The Sun Valley and Ketchum, Idaho, area makes a lovely micro trip or weekend getaway anytime of the year. Period. And a weekend spent in Sun Valley and Ketchum is just one way we, as part-time travelers, make the most of our time off work. You should give it a try.
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When B, C and I spent a few weeks in Eastern Europe, we allotted several days for Estonia. We didn’t really know much about this little country, but we’d read that Tallinn was awesome and figured we’d be able to find things to keep us entertained. We were correct. I had read that biking through the countryside was a lovely way to spend your time, so we found a few recommendations in Rick Steves and made our way down to City Bikes. This post tells our story about that time we went biking in Estonia.
City Bikes
We walked into the shop and found two hunky men and a bunch of bikes. Since it was early May, the bike season hadn’t actually started yet. But after talking to one of the handsome fellas (Australian, I think), he disappeared into a backroom and came out with the bossman, Toomas (also a hunk) who decided he would take us on a tour–I think mainly so he could check out the route himself in anticipation of the upcoming season. Toomas described what the ‘tour’ would entail and after some convincing, B and C agreed to go along. (Have we mentioned the importance of good travel buddies?)
Riding through the forest.
The adventure begins
The next morning, Toomas picked us up in a van loaded with four bikes. We headed out in the direction of Lahemaa National Park, where we would be riding that day. Toomas decided to jazz up our ride by showing us several Estonian landmarks and explaining a lot about this country. Our first stop was the Jagala Waterfall, the largest in the land. School children come here on field trips and I was (per the ushe) amazed at how few restrictions there are in places compared to the U.S. No way would there not be fences, signposts and handrails everywhere if that was in, say, Ohio. And you know what, the school kids survive their visiting the falls without the regulations. Go figure.
I was a little unimpressed with the biggest falls in the country. There’s Toomas in his sexy spandex.
And so it begins
Our next stop was the beginning of the bike tour in a town called Palmse. Let me explain what that meant: Toomas pulled over, took our bikes off the van, handed us a bottle of water and a photocopied piece of paper that had a hand-drawn map on one side and useful phrases in Estonian on the other. Phrases such as, “Help me, I’m lost” and “Please call the police.” He pointed in the direction we should go and circled a town on the map and said he’d pick us up in four hours. C looked a little uncomfortable; it probably didn’t help that when she had texted her sister the night before about our day’s adventure, her sister’s response was not terribly encouraging…it ended with ‘it was nice knowing you.’
C was working through a sprained ankle and still made it 35 kms.
Lahemaa National Park
The day was just about perfect for a ride through an unknown land, a little misty but not raining. We were riding on a paved road, one of many in the national park. Lahemaa is in the center of the northern coast of Estonia and is about 300 square miles. Luckily, we were only biking a short portion of that (around 35 kms.) The majority of the landscape is forested with lots of trees like what we see in our mountains back home; there are also lots of areas of bogs, something we definitely do not have in Idaho. It took us a while to figure out when we were looking at a bog actually, but we got the hang of it eventually.
Bogs and wetlands in the park.
Sagadi Manor
Our first stop of the tour was at the Sagadi Manor. This manor was built in the 1400s in the Baroque style by a German family. There are several buildings that comprise the manor, but we only toured the main house. I’ve read that this is one of the most visited manors in Estonia, but not all of us were that impressed…as we rode off B described it as creepy.
Sagadi Manor. If it isn’t Baroque…
Swinging on a giant swing
Our next stop was in the town of Altoa. Town is pretty generous, actually. There were a few deserted buildings and a giant wood swing (the reason why we stopped). There was a sign that explained that swings like this were an important part of the countryside’s culture and people gather together and sing and swing on them during festivals and celebrations. The three of us easily could all fit on this thing. Side note: this swinging tradition has found itself in a new extreme sport in Estonia called kiiking. People in giant swing pump their way up and eventually swing over the top. Youtube it.
Traditional Estonian wooden swing. We did not get it to spin over the top.
Russian red soup…just don’t
By this point in the journey we were a bit hungry so we stopped in a seaside town of Vosu for some lunch. This town is on the edge of the Baltic Sea and reminded me of an old summer resort in 50s America, kind of like on Dirty Dancing. Except without Johnny. B went with a seafood soup since we were so close to the ocean, and I went with a Russian soup, since we were so close to Russia. Hers turned out much better than mine…a strange red color with hot dog like pieces floating around.
Red Russian soup. The garlic bread was tasty.
Baltic Sea
We then took a stroll down to the Baltic Sea, the northernmost body of water I’ve ever been to. If the weather was warmer, this town would be quite nice. The beach was pretty and I could imagine lots of kids splashing around for the two weeks of the year that it was above 80 degrees. (Not really sure if this is true, but it seemed very cold!)
We made it! The Baltic Sea.
We can do it!
At this point we were getting pretty tired of biking, but our final destination was only a few kilometers away. Toomas caught up with us and offered to go get the van and bring it back to us, but our pride wouldn’t allow such a thing. We huffed and puffed our way to the van and climbed off our bikes for the last time. (Thankfully!)
And so it ended
Our ride back to Tallinn was interesting. Toomas pointed out the Tallinn TV tower, where, in 1991 a few Estonians stood up to the Soviets in a bid to protect the freedom of media. He also explained that the old, derelict-looking buildings we saw were communist-era housing complexes and talked about how there is a lot of tension with Estonian-Russian relations. Lots of Russians moved to Estonia during the communist era and they relate more with Russia, whereas the younger generation consider themselves Estonian first. Tip: if you can, get a local talking about the history and politics of the country you are visiting. You’ll learn a lot more than what you pick up in a book.
Once we arrived back at the City Bike office, Toomas disappeared inside for a while. We couldn’t figure out what he was doing, but eventually he came back out with gold medals (chocolate in gold wrappers) that we earned for completing our bike tour. All in all, our bike tour was a terrific way to see more of Estonia and Toomas and the City Bike operation was just delightful.
Conclusion
We didn’t know what was going to happen on this bike tour. It could have ended very badly (lost, rained on, broken bike, exhausted) but sometimes you just have to go for it while traveling. Biking in Estonia through the Lahemaa National Park ended up being my favorite thing we did in that country.
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