Mostar

We took the train from Sarajevo down to Mostar. We had a hot tip from several blogs to make sure we sat on the left side of the train and for the first two hours that didn’t really make sense, but the last 30 minutes went through a stunning canyon with some epic views that were about as good as the train to Montenegro. Only this time we didn’t have a teenager smoking and telling me I’m old and pronounce the towns incorrectly. 

Blagaj Tejija Monastery

B had to work most nights, so I went on an adventure solo the next day. I had the best tour guides I’ve had on this trip and I learned a lot. I also made friends with the girls in the van so we were able to have someone watch our stuff and were able to swim without worry. 

Our first stop of the day was at the Blagaj tejija, a monastery kind of place for Sufi dervishes, of the whirling variety. The building was nestled up against the beautiful blue river and we walked through all the rooms of the building. This has been around for hundreds of years and people used it as a way stop on the trading routes. The dervishes are still active (although we didn’t see any) and so we had to wear modesty scarves. I learned a lot about the dervishes. They were really intellectual and up on the latest advancements in sciences but also very religious and would pray with prayer beads so they said each prayer 99 times. They basically enter a trancelike state when they do the spinning thing. 

Pocitaj

The next stop was Pocitaj, a medieval walled city on a hill. When the Ottomans were pushing north, the Duke of Herzogovina did a deal where he gave his two youngest kids to the Ottomans and then could keep their independence. Little did he know that his one kid would become a high ranking vizier and would later invade his former home on behalf of his new family. As our tour guide said, “this is real Game of Thrones stuff…but Croatia got gast instead of us!” We started at the top of the town and walked down. It was so hot that the residents (only 17 families left) have set up little self-paying stations with frozen drinks. I bought dried dates and figs and a frozen pomegranate juice. By the time I got to the bottom my ice was all melted! 

Kravica Waterfalls

We next went to Kravica water falls. It was really pretty and busy and hot. We took turns swimming and it felt so wonderful to enter the frigid water and finally not be hot. I didn’t even mind the little fish that were swimming around. There were lots of falls and it was really pretty.  

Growing up in Mostar

While driving our guide told us lots of interesting info on Bosnia and her experience with the war. She was probably a teenager when it happened. Here are some reflections of Bosnian life:

• Bosnians only drink tea when they are sick, otherwise it is coffee
• If you are served cold coffee on a visit, you should hit the road. Hot coffee means stay a while
• Mostar was intermixed with cultures before the war and kids all went to the same school. Now they go to separate schools, either Croat, Bosniak, or Serb. She’s worried for the youth hating each other without knowing the reasons
• She went to Germany as a refugee in the war while her parents stayed in Bosnia

Around Mostar

B and I had fun exploring Mostar on our free time. We took a coppersmith class and stamped copper earrings. Our teacher showed us the process with the chemicals and stamping. I don’t know that I’ll wear mine that often, but it was fun. 

The main thing in Mostar is the bridge. It is an Ottoman stone bridge and is pretty dramatic. It is super slick and a little steep and the first time we went over I had to help a sweet old man who was sliding all over! We didn’t see any of the bridge jumpers though. Maybe it was too hot for them. The old town is little and crowded but very cute. Lots of cute shops and restaurants. In the newer part of town (only a couple hundred years old) we saw remnants of the war in shot up buildings. It is crazy how decimated this region was. Such a waste. 

I enjoyed an apartment complex that painted murals on the buildings that were several stories tall. I guess each year they do a new one.

I also enjoyed 1981 written everywhere in town. Apparently the Red Army of 1981 recognizes the local Bosnian football team from that year. We saw lots of men gathered around TVs one night supporting their team. It was funny because World Cup is still going on and there were way more people on the Red Army night than the WC night. 

So long, Bosnia (and Herzogovina, of course)

I was most looking forward to visiting this country when planning a repeat visit to the Balkans. It did not disappoint. The history was bleak, but it is important to go places and see bleak things so you can better understand. B&H wasn’t all doom and gloom, there are many beautiful places here as well.