Several years ago, B was spending part of her time working out of her company’s in New Jersey office. Serendipitously, I was sent to a work conference in Rhode Island at the same time. Of course the two of us would plan a few days …
It is very difficult for me to name a favorite country. I do not have children, but I imagine it feels a bit like having to choose one of those. However, even though I struggle to name a favorite country, I do not struggle to …
As B and I were planning our trip to the Balkans region, we knew we wanted to go from Romania to Montenegro. There were a few different ways to travel between the these countries, but we opted to travel there via Serbia. And we were so very glad we did. While we only spent 36 hours in Belgrade, we had a really wonderful time. Belgrade was a definite sleeper and turned out to be one of our favorite stops on the whole trip. This post will discuss what we did, saw and ate during our too brief stay in this Balkan gem.
Sidenote
You might be wondering why we didn’t just fly from Romania to Montenegro and skip right over Serbia. Well, the reason is because I had read an article on the delights of a certain train that crossed the Balkans. The article promised us the scenery would be spectacular. Since B is a sucker for a rail ride, we decided it would be a fun experience. We had some sketchy moments making this particular adventure happen, but overall it was a really good decision. Visiting Belgrade was a by-product of taking this train. Lucky for us, it turned out to be a terrific bonus.
Getting In and Out
We had hired a personal driver to take us from Romania to Belgrade. (This is a WHOLE different story, but suffice it to say it was our best option.) I rather liked arriving in style, but in most circumstances this is not how we normally roll. Our exit from Belgrade was much more conventional for us. We lugged our backpacks down to the train station, and boarded a train for Podgorica, Montenegro.
We had purchased our ticket at the train station the day before, using a method that would see us through the rest of the trip. (See this post for surviving in countries where you don’t speak the language.) This process involved the following:
Look up train schedules online (if possible). Sometimes this meant using Google Maps.
Arrive at the window to buy our tickets armed with money and a piece of paper on which we had written the name of the place we wanted to go, the time we wanted and the seat we wanted.
Hand the person the paper and money and smile really big.
We had paid extra to reserve our spots on the train ($2-ish or so). Apparently, this is not the norm. Instead, people just show up and claim seats they want. This led to an awkward moment where we sat down in our seats and the person who wanted them had to leave. Most likely cussing out bourgeois Americans. Anyway, the train is a nice option for arriving and exiting Belgrade.
Getting Around
Belgrade is very walkable. From the point we got dropped off to the point we boarded the train, we only used our two feet for getting around. They do have public transportation, but everything we wanted to see was in a pretty compact few miles. The city is surrounded on two sides by rivers, so you could probably catch a river ride..or maybe kayak or paddle board?
Eating
I’ve said this before, B and I are not foodies. We are perfectly happy to find markets and grocery stores and eat snacks at our hotel. Belgrade was a crazy affordable city, though, so we ended up eating lots of places that had food you could grab and go. For example, we had giant pizza slices for about a $1.50 a slice. Our AirBnB host, Djordge, recommended a place just across the street for some authentic Serbian food. This place served pljeskavica, which was essentially a hamburger with clotted cream instead of ketchup and mustard. We hadn’t had clotted cream before, but to us it tasted like butter. Our sandwiches were only a few dollars.
Sightseeing
Belgrade is an ancient city. Like ANCIENT ancient. As such there are lots of things to see and do for a history buff like me. But don’t worry, this town is not fuddy duddy. Quite the opposite really. Trendy, beautiful (and tall!) people are all over, doing the things that trendy, beautiful people do. Here are the things we enjoyed the most.
Kalmegdan
Right up some cliffs from the Danube River is the Belgrade Fortress, a.k.a. Kalmegdan. Picture a stone wall stretching along the river bank, dotted with little buildings. Word on the street was that Attila the Hun was buried here…but no one really knows for sure because the Serbians have stopped excavating this area because they know they’ll find awesome historical stuff wherever they dig. That’s what happens with ancient cities. We most enjoyed this area because it was gorgeous. On the other side of the stone walls is a nice big park. We went there a few times during our 36 hours in Belgrade.
The Kalmegdan Fortress. Who knows, we could be standing on Attila!
Serbian National Opera
Like most things in Belgrade, the Serbian National Opera is ridiculously affordable. We splurged on the good seats and only spent about $5.00 to watch La Traviata. Well, most of it. Being as how we don’t really know our operas and the subtitles were in Cyrillic and we didn’t know what was going on when they kept taking breaks…we left before the Third Act. Oh well, I definitely felt I got my $5 bucks worth even leaving early.
Operas. 3 Acts, people.
Tesla Museum
Nope, not a car lot, but a cool museum dedicated to Serbian (later American) Nikola Tesla. I still don’t understand most of what Tesla’s inventions do, but I can appreciate that this man was a genius and lots of things I take for granted I have because of him. This museum is small and tucked in a residential part of town. It was nice to walk to it and see a different side of Belgrade.
Not really sure what this thing is, but I’m sure whoever made it is smarter than me.
Saint Sava Cathedral
This church is one of the largest in the world. It is on top of a higher part of town, which makes it look even more impressive. But the thing that impressed me most about this church is that there were so many worshippers, especially young ones. It seems like I only see old women at most cathedrals in Europe. Eastern Orthodoxy is still going strong among the youth in Serbia. We watched as one woman walked in and before she crossed the door she kissed the door frame. After she did this I noticed a smudge on the doorframe, so this must be a common practice.
St. Sava is quite stately.
Party boats
I only mention this so as not to lead any readers astray if they are into clubbing and are visiting Belgrade. B and I are most definitely not into clubbing (too old, not cool enough even when we were young). But if you are, make sure to visit the banks of the Sava River and hit up some of the large barges that sideline as clubs and bars. Apparently, they get bumping to EDT come evening. We saw them during the day and could easily picture a party going on. These things plus the cheap booze in this town is probably a big enough reason for Euro youths to visit Belgrade.
Shopping
Knez Mihailova Street is a terrific pedestrian street that stretches for about a half of a mile. This is clearly the place for people to hang out in Belgrade, locals and tourists alike. There are shops and restaurants lining the roads, but we most enjoyed just watching people do their thing. Lots of street performers hang out in this area. (Sadly, lots of beggar children also.) I especially enjoyed the popcorn sellers where I could get a bag of popcorn for only $.30.
You could set up shop in this part of town and stay quite happy for hours.
We found an artisan/handicraft boutique and visited it a few times. We probably bought more stuff from this little co-op than we did in whole other countries on this trip. There are lots of international brands in Belgrade, and I assume goods are much more affordable here than in other places. So if you are craving some high fashion, it might just be worth the trip to Belgrade to buy it. I could be wrong about that, but hey, at least you’d get to visit this rad town!
Conclusion
36 hours in Belgrade was not nearly enough. But now we know that this gem exists and if we ever have the chance we can plan a longer trip to really enjoy this surprising city.
New Zealand is one of my all-time favorite travel destinations. The landscape is so stunning and unique, it is hard for the rest of the world to compete. And then there are the people. Kiwis are, by far, the nicest people I have ever met. …
A while ago, we talked about the benefits of taking a mini break during the rush of a vacation to just relax. Well, we upped the ante on our last vacation and pretty much took a break the entire time we were in Europe. Who …
I tried out a number of new (to me) travel-related products in 2018. Some were real winners and made my trips easier, while others were just okay and not really worth the hassle. Interestingly enough, none were duds. Below, in no particular order, are my 2018 travel finds for women. Go ahead and try one out if you think it will make your travel life a little easier. I have included links (some of them Amazon affiliate) to those products I have personally ordered and used.
Powdered toothpaste
One of my favorite finds in 2018 was powdered toothpaste. I tried it out as part of an experiment comparing solid versus liquid travel toiletries to see how long they each last. At the end of the experiment, I was a convert. Yes, powdered toothpaste lasts longer than its liquid counterpart. However, there are a lot of other advantages. Since it is not a liquid, you do not have to worry about leaks (or more likely explosions) and or the 3.4 ounce TSA restriction.
Over the past year, I have noticed a rising popularity in powdered toothpaste. When I first started researching it, I could only find it in two stores near me. So I bought it off of Amazon. Now, I see it at a lot more stores. Powdered toothpaste also makes a great DIY project and recipes abound on the internet. I too have made my own and find it quick and easy.
Brushing your teeth with powdered toothpaste is a different experience. I did not find it unpleasant, but it took a little bit to get used to. However, I do really like the taste of the brand I bought and best of all, it has helped with some light staining on my teeth (my dental hygienist even commented on it).
You do not have to convert entirely and use it at home. But you might want to consider it for your next trip.
These shoes have lived up to their hype. They really are super comfortable. They really are easy to clean. But my favorite part is that you don’t have to wear socks with them. Because they are made out of wool, it is like the sock is built in. I bought a cream pair for travel, which just seems crazy. But they held up and when I got home, I threw them in the washing machine. They came out good as new.
To see more, watch my review on YouTube:
Travel foot hammock
A foot hammock is a simple thing, but it can be quite delightful. It might be my favorite try of 2018. If you have ever flown on Turkish Airlines, you know that even the seats way back in economy have little foot rests. That might not seem like a big deal, but on a ten-hour flight, the ability to elevate your legs even a few inches is a welcome relief.
A foot hammock does the same thing. It is lightweight and rolls up, so it doesn’t take up much room. You simply “install” it by hanging it over your tray table. If you position it right, it will work when the tray is both up and down. You can also adjust the length to your preference. Both R and I received one from my mother for Christmas and we both enjoyed it all the way home.
My sister-in-law is a former hair stylist and she squealed with delight when she caught a glimpse of my mini flat iron. It really is the most adorable thing. But aside from being cute, it is practical for travel (assuming you need/want to fix your hair). It is small and light, comes in a travel case, has a long cord (useful for reaching weirdly placed outlets) and works in countries with a different voltage. You just need your handy adapter and you are good to go.
Most of the time, I do not bother much with my hair while traveling. But every now and then, I like to spruce up a bit. I do not mind throwing in my tiny flat iron for those every-now-and-then situations. It is also really handy for work travel.
Curls! Easy to do with a mini flat iron.
Dual USB plug
Traveling nowadays typically includes a lot more electronics than it used to. There are smartphones, wireless earphones/buds, tablets and readers, laptops, etc. And all those electronics need to be charged. Since I only have one adapter, I was struggling to juggle all the necessary charging for my electronics. Enter a dual USB plug. This plug takes up a touch more room than my single USB plug, but it gives me two charging options at the same time. It is a small change, but it made a big difference, especially the last night of a trip.
Note: I bought a second plug and these are now my go-to at home.
Ever since the first trip I took with a compression packing cube, I have been hooked. I bought Grand Trunk’s version on sale on a whim. That turned out to be a great whim. There are a lot of options out there for both packing cubes (which I still use) and compression bags (which I use occasionally). But this two-in-one option has traveled with me on every trip since I got it and I love it. I have not tried other brands, but I would be willing to give them a shot.
If you want to see how it works, check out my review of the Grand Trunk compression pack cube on YouTube.
Essential oil carrier
In 2018, I began experimenting with essential oils while traveling. It has been a hit-or-miss experience so far. But one thing that was a hit was the adorable essential oil carrying case I found on Etsy. The case holds three small bottles and adds a level of protection against breakage. I have only used it on one trip so far, so I have some more experimenting to do.
The Trtl travel pillow was an okay find. It was not life changing, but it did the job. It’s biggest recommendation is its size/shape. I like my cabeau pillow, but it takes up a lot of room. I don’t mind that so much during the plane ride, but I hate packing it around once I arrive at my destination. The Trtle travel pillow lays almost flat and is quite light. So it just makes it easier to pack.
I did get a little warm on the flight, but I am not sure if the pillow contributed to that or not. I thought I might not like that you have to pick a side to lean against, but that did not end up bothering me at all. My overnighter to Europe was still painful, but it was made less painful by this pillow. If you haven’t invested in a travel pillow yet, the Trtle is a solid option.
I saw face mist on a travel vlog and immediately decided to give it a try. Honestly, it felt great…when I remembered to use it. R and I enjoyed several nice spritzes on the flight to Germany. However, on the way home I completely forgot all about it. Now that I think about it, it would have been really useful when I was feeling sleeping and dehydrated. Next time!
I also think it would be great on trips to hot places. A little spritz would provide a little relief, which is better than nothing when one is hot and miserable.
A disposable eye mask was another suggestion I got from a travel vlog. You may feel a little foolish with them on, but they were quite soothing. I’m not sure I arrived in Europe any fresher than usual, but it made for an entertaining 15 minutes…which is always appreciated on a long flight.
Hydrating eye masks on a long flight.
Conclusion
I always enjoy trying new products. I especially enjoy trying new travel products that make travel easier or more enjoyable. Try out a couple of my 2018 travel finds for women and let me know what you think.
Last year we visited the Christmas markets in Belgium and the Netherlands. While there, we were told that we needed to visit Germany if we really wanted to see Christmas markets. Well, challenge accepted. This year we traveled to Europe over the holidays and would …
Airbnb has changed the way we travel. It has opened up a whole new world when it comes to lodging and it has done it in a way that is fun and easy. We shared our reasons you should give Airbnb a try as well …
Bucharest (not to be confused with Budapest), Romania, is the bustling capital city of Romania. Once known as the “Paris of the East,” it has known some good times. Sadly, with the U.S.S.R. and a powerful dictator, it has also known some bad times. When the Iron Curtain fell, the good times started to slowly come back. Now is a great time to visit this beautiful city. This post discusses some tips for exploring Bucharest.
Exploring Bucharest – Getting There
The Henri Coanda International airport, also known as Otapeni or OTP, is a ways out of town. B did a lot of research into how to get to the downtown center from this airport and we were a little nervous by what she found out. Apparently, there are some unscrupulous cabbies in Romania that can take advantage of visitors. Fortunately, Romania is currently a very inexpensive destination, so you can spring for safe passage without dealing with taxis, trains or buses. Bonus, you get to feel like a baller if you hire a car.
Three Experiences
Between B and me, we had three different transportation experiences. For our initial arrival, B had arranged for a driver to pick us up. It was a little challenging for her because of the language barrier, but when I saw a guy holding a sign with a name that slightly resembled B’s, I knew we were in business. We got into a fancy black car and were swept downtown. Our price for this was around $40. Split between two, it wasn’t that much of a splurge.
A text to B about our taxi driver in Bucharest.
We left Bucharest on different days. B rolled the dice and took an Uber to the airport when she flew out. I say rolled the dice because Uber isn’t as established as it is in other places. However, it worked out just fine for her and she made it to the airport with no problems and a cost around $15.
I stayed an extra night by myself in Bucharest, so I opted to splurge a little and stay at a nice hotel. Nice hotels offer nice rides to the airport and so I ended up just booking it through the concierge for around $25.
Exploring Bucharest – What to See
My favorite part of Bucharest was the architecture. It was fascinating to see these tall buildings that were ornately built but have fallen into hard times during the last hundred years. They are still beautiful, but in a haunting rather than in-your-face kind of way. We spent many hours wandering through the Old Town and adjacent parts of town. The architecture of many buildings was spectacular.
Buildings that are still beautiful.
The Palace of the Parliament
Nicolae Ceaușescu, the Communist leader during the times Romania was part of the U.S.S.R., was a real piece of work. He was eventually put on trial and put to death in 1989. During his tenure, he did a lot of things, one of which was directed the creation of the Palace of the Parliament Building. This is no ordinary building….it is huge! You can spot this behemoth from many streets in Bucharest as it sits atop a little hill. Ceaușescu decided this building would be a statement piece and tore down whole tracts of the city and displaced lots of Romanians to get the room for his masterpiece.
Palace of the Parliament is huuuuge.
If you want to go inside the Palace, you will have to get tickets. A lot of things in Romania are just a little more challenging than in western Europe, so we asked our hotel to call and reserve them for us. We showed up with our passports and after we went through security, we went on a tour with an adorable guide. The visit is well the trouble and a highlight of visiting Bucharest.
Old Town
Bucharest is an old town and its Old Town is full of interesting things to see from many different centuries. Even ol’ Vlad the Impaler has a presence; the Old Court from the 15th century where he used to hang out is a crumbling ruin.
Vlad’s Old Court in Old Town, Bucharest
Old Town is full of old churches, old inns, old banks and lots of old shops and old houses. It conveniently has signs posted on different streets with maps and descriptions of the points of interest in English. We spent most of our time in Bucharest in Old Town, wandering and looking around.
Exploring Bucharest – What to Eat
Bucharest isn’t really the Paris of the East anymore. Fortunately though, it still has some delicious pastries that could found in Paris. Our first stop when exploring Bucharest was a pastry shop. Delicious.
Europeans know how to do pastries
There are plenty of restaurants in Old Town that serve tasty morsels. Typically, it isn’t the best idea to eat in tourist districts because the prices are significantly inflated. Romania is cheap enough that we didn’t mind paying the higher price for convenience.
Exploring Bucharest – Staying Safe
On my last night in Bucharest, I was in the hotel flipping through channels. One of the only English speaking channels had a documentary on the seedier side of (you guessed it) Bucharest. It was actually quite sad and highlighted the drug problems where people lived in the tunnels under the city. We didn’t see any of this when we were exploring, but it just goes to show that it’s important to be smart when visiting big cities.
When visiting any place, make sure you are smart and don’t put yourself at risk for obvious crimes. If you’re going to party, make sure one person stays sober. Don’t be showy about your wealth. Use trustworthy locals to help you out: for example, have your hotel concierge call you a cab.
Conclusion
Bucharest, Romania, is a wonderful city. I’ve wanted to visit here for many years and I was not disappointed. I loved the history and the feeling of excitement as this city rebuilds itself from the days of communism. If Bucharest has been on your list for a while, we encourage you to visit soon.
In 2017, R and I spent our first Christmas on the road and away from home. As the only single gals in our respective families, traipsing across Europe for Christmas sounded like a fine idea. We love our families, but we are lucky enough to …