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For 2017, we opted to try out a European Christmas instead of our usual celebrations. B and I joined together with four more people to take on The Continent during the holiday season. We’ve discussed the importance of keeping a travel journal, so we wanted to show you an example of what one could look like. The following is my travelogue (admittedly, with some stream of consciousness ramblings) from our 2017 European Christmas vacation.
Boise, Idaho
Dad picked up B, M, G and me and drove us to the airport for our Christmas vacation in Europe. We flew first to Seattle, where they were having some sort of problem as planes stacked up on the runway. We never found out what the issue was, but after about 20 minutes of sitting around, we pulled into a gate. Luckily, we were fine because our next flight was delayed (luckily?).
Like me, G has the Chase Sapphire Reserve credit card so we could all use the Priority Pass membership that comes along with that card and go into one of the airport lounges. We got some free food and drinks and hung out while we waited. B had made us all adorable plane kits, so we started off the Christmas festivities right by opening presents and eating candy.
Squirrel tooth Alice and Smutty Buckskin are our walkie talkie names.
Eventually we made it to Amsterdam, met up with P (G’s twin) and Mk (his girlfriend), picked up our rental cars and got out of dodge. We wanted to make sure we declined the insurance at the rental car company so that our credit card would cover the rental insurance. I thought my dutch rental agent and I were getting along swimmingly, but at the end it all fell apart. After some unfortunate miscommunication, we finally handed over the paperwork and he sent us out to the garage.
We got two little cars for the six of us; B and I had a Citroen and the rest of the crew crammed into a car basically the same size, but it ran on diesel. We ended up with some of the crew’s luggage in our backseat since four bags and four people couldn’t fit in one of these babies. It was pretty fun to drive our little Citroen C3 and since we didn’t want to pay extra for an additional driver, I was the designated driver for the whole trip (me a DD—what else is new…).
Ypres, Ieper (aka Wipers)
We first drove to Ypres or Ieper. Something that is fun about this place is that some of the names are in Flemish and some are in French–which makes it a little confusing for tourists. We went with the way the Brits pronounced it, Wipers, since we couldn’t say it the correct way either. Anyway, we got to our first cute medieval town and walked around gawking at the architecture and Christmas decorations, including our first Christmas market. A group of people dressed up like polar bears were walking around playing Lady Gaga on instruments….not sure what that was about but it was festive and a lovely start to our European Christmas!
Poppies are emblematic of WW1 in these parts.
I dragged everyone here because I wanted to see the In Flanders Field Museum. It was very well done and all about the reasons why WW1 broke out and how it involved the different nations. It was housed in the Laukenhall, or old wool mill. (Funny story about this place: when they used it for wool they used to bring a bunch of cats in in the winter to kill the mice. Then in the spring they threw the cats out the windows and off the roof because they represented the evil spirits… Poor Kitties!) The building was gorgeous and gothic. Throw interesting historical exhibits in there and I was hooked.
It was interesting to learn about the Belgians in particular and how they were affected when the Germans invaded. They really got it bad. We climbed up the 300-ish steps up to the bell tower and got an excellent view of the city before going back to ground level to check out the Menin Gate. This gate has the names of the 35,000 British soldiers whose bodies didn’t make it back home. The gate is very large and powerful looking. On the top there was a field of wood poppies and the first line of the poem, “In Flanders Fields the poppies grow, within the crosses row by row.” It was quite moving and somber. I told B I would limit the amount of depressing historical places we visited, so I crammed most of into our first day.
Somewhere in Flanders
Our next adventure took us to the Tyne Cot cemetery were 12,000 British soldiers were lain to rest. This is the largest British military cemetery in the world. Even though it is so large, we had a hard time finding the place and ended up at another war cemetery first (they are all over the place in Flanders). But there’s no mistaking 12,000 stones lined up. It was getting dark and apparently the guidebook forgot to tell us that it is closed in December and January. Oh well, we could see enough to get the gist.
This is a good time to discuss the limitations of GPS. We have come to really depend on the GPS in our rental cars. Since we didn’t have wifi turned on, we had to rely on the car to get us where we wanted to go. For the most part, one of our cars’ systems would work. We made sure to bring walkie-talkies with us so we could communicate between the cars (and because this is just plain ol’ fun.) The point is, use the tools you are given, but don’t be surprised when they fail you. Part of the fun of travel is adapting to new situations, so just take it easy and figure it out. You’ll be fine.
Our Citron was little, but it got us where we wanted to go. Mainly.
Bruges
War memorial tours complete, we then headed up to Bruges and oh my goodness, this town is ridiculous. Everywhere you look is so, so cute and quaint. I really think medieval towns are my favorite. The buildings here go into a point and then go down steps at 90 degree angles and are made mostly of brick. When we arrived I had to drive through downtown amidst all of the tourists on narrow cobblestone roads. The Azores driving definitely prepared me for that moment because it didn’t even phase me.
B had researched beforehand about different parking garages that we had hoped to leave our cars at. Unfortunately, by the time we got to town it was late and people were out celebrating so we had to go to Plan B and find another spot. M decided on street parking. Turns out both our decisions had not entirely successful results, but more on that later. We ended up finding our adorable house (our travel companions stayed the same building just one floor away). This place is perfect and a great place to experience a European Christmas.
Bruges is most definitely not a craphole, Colin Farrell.
We went out to the main square that was currently dressed up as a Christmas Market to find some food. We got some delicious Belgian fries from one stand and two different kinds of waffles from another. There was an ice skating rink in the middle of the city and all sorts of Christmas lights around. This place really is a fairytale. Jet lag soon kicked in though and we headed back to the house. I got about 12 hours sleep and we spent the next day going on a walking tour of Bruges.
The Christmas crew, walking around Bruges.
Christmas Eve
There are a bunch of tourists here for the holidays, but we walked through the main town markets, over the canals and into the gothic buildings, all the while avoiding the horses pulling around people on the clippity cloppity cobblestones. Highlights included the Grote Markt and the Begijnhof, which is where B and I would live because it is where semi-religious single women lived and worked. Perfect. The rows of houses really are so cute. They take one giant, long building and you can tell they are different houses because the doors and windows are painted different colors.
There are chocolate shops everywhere, which is glorious. We popped into one, just to keep our energy levels high to be able to continue walking. Then saw some of the famous swans (rumor has it that the Flemish killed a French noble who had a long neck like a swan and their curse was geese would inhabit the city ever after.) We popped into a grocery store to get provisions for tomorrow since the town will be pretty much shut down for Christmas. After lugging it all back to the house we realized there is another grocery store just around the corner. Oh well, it’s good to work off the waffles…and fries…and chocolate.
Begijnhof…where B and I felt kindred with Janes of old.
Oostend
Our next adventure on Christmas Eve was to get the car and head to the coast. B and I wanted to see the North Sea so we headed east to the town of Oostend. We had a really bad experience at the car garage; we drove up the ramp and realized that the machine didn’t take credit cards. You had to pay before you left the garage. It was awful! Another car came behind us and I was stuck and the gate was closed. B had to go ask them how to pay, run around the corner and pay in a machine before we could leave. So embarrassing. It was a very rookie mistake not to pay attention to things like that and just assume they are the way they are in the U.S. Oops. We made it out, though and headed to the town of Oostend.
Eating freshly made donuts at a market in Oostend.
Our first impression of the city was not stellar. It looked like any other coastal city with high rise apartments along the water. The beach was really pretty though and we walked through a seafood row and ended up in a Christmas market where we got some croutillions (donut holes) fried before our eyes. On our way back to the car, we found a cool pedestrian road that was lined with shops. Most were closing up but I got some cute Christmas ornaments in one and had a delightful conversation with a lady who ran the shop.
Unfortunately, at this point we realized we were going to be late for our 6:00 p.m. dinner reservation in Bruges and I had to drive like a maniac to get back to the city. It’s fun to drive here; people go really fast and the left lane is only for passing. We pulled into the city in the nick of time and got to the restaurant just at 6 p.m.
Months before we left for this trip we decided we wanted to really splurge on Christmas Eve. B found a restaurant with great reviews and we started emailing Tom and Line months before Christmas so we could make sure we had somewhere special to go. We packed fancy dresses which B and I didn’t get to wear since we had to go straight from the parking garage to the restaurant. The rest of the group looked great though!
Our food was super fancy and the portions were massive. I assumed the more you spend at restaurants the smaller the portions were, but that wasn’t the case here. I got fancy potatoes in a Champagne glass and chateaubriand which was like eating raw meat. Dessert was delicious, an apple tart and or cream and a lemon cello. Basically a glass of lemon/champagne sorbet. The whole experience was great. Looking out the window at Bruges just added to it. We headed home and were pretty tired after all the walking today. I think it is time to head to bed and get ready for a magical Belgium Christmas.
Bruges and Dumpkirk
Christmas Day
Christmas Day I woke up and lounged about the apartment and watched people walk around on the busy street below. This apartment really is wonderful. We each have our own room and there is a large living room and kitchen. Airbnb at its finest. After an hour or two of chilling, B and I opened up our presents. She had a Harry Potter theme for me and everything was executed so well. All sorts of fun HP do-dads to go with my stocking her mom had made me. HP themed of course.
We met up with G and M and opened some more presents (mine also HP, ironically). I ate a traditional European breakfast of some baguette and Nutella and we decided since we didn’t really have anything else to do we would visit France. Because… France. B and I knew how to do the parking garages after the debacle the day before and M got a hefty ticket for street parking the night before, so after both cars successfully exited the parking garage we hit the road and drove on down to Dunkirk, France.
It was only an hour or so away, but the towns are miles apart in cuteness. M dubbed it ‘Dumpkirk’ because it wasn’t cute. We were able to find the beach where the soldiers all waited to be rescued so that was very cool, but at soon as we could we got out of dodge.
Dumpkirk. Woof.
The next stop was our first visit to a gas station in Holland. I’m not gonna lie, it didn’t go smoothly. We pulled up to the pumps and were overwhelmed by the options of fuel you can pump into your vehicle. There were lots of different abbreviations and colors that we had no idea what they where. At one point, I tried to fill the car up with natural gas, with a nozzle like when you are using a propane tank with your camping gear…fortunately nothing came out. Anyway, after driving to a few pumps, pushing a bunch of buttons, trying all of the credit cards we had, we eventually filled up the cars. It’s a really good thing that these little fellers get excellent gas mileage because I don’t want to repeat this process multiple times this trip.
Once we were back on the road, I didn’t do a very good job of being lead car and ended up losing the team on a roundabout. They took a wrong exit and got lost. I felt really bad.
Eventually they made it back and G, B and I wandered the market before meeting back up for a roast P and G had made. It was so nice getting a lovely home-cooked dinner amidst our vacation. I really appreciated the effort. They had to go to a butcher and buy the meat and to a grocery store for the other stuff and scrounge in the kitchen for utensils. We had a salad in a wok…but it was all so good. For dessert we picked up chocolate covered marshmallows on a waffle that were delicious.
Tomorrow we head to Brussels. Bruges has been wonderful. I would definitely come here again but maybe not during Christmas as it is crazy full of tourists. Next week they will all be gone. I really loved the cobblestone alleys and gabled buildings. The church bells go off pretty much non stop but it adds to the ambiance of the place. I would have loved to have wandered around more—we did a little before dinner and got to wander on some less traveled roads, but I would have loved to have done more. Oh well—I can always come back!
Ghent
Today we packed up and headed out of Bruges to go to Brussels. We stopped in at Ghent along the way and explored the city for a bit.
We started in Het Gravensteen, an old castle where the count of Ghent used to live. It was really cool to climb up and down the castle stairs and all around. Castles would have been a pretty awful place to live. But I guess in medieval times everywhere would have been awful to live so at least these guys had some space to themselves. The torture room was no good, I feel really sorry for all of those people back then who got tortured. Well, I guess I feel bad for people tortured these days too, but it is just wild to see the metal collars with spikes in them and pit where people used to live strung up with shackles until they eventually died. Rough going back then.
After the castle we headed over to St. Baaf’s Cathedral, at least we tried to. We weren’t really sure where we were headed and so when we got to Cathedral 1 we thought it was it. Nope. Cathedral 2? Nope. Our third guess on a stretch on one road 10 blocks long was the right one.
I don’t get how there were enough people to keep all of those cool churches going and how much money it took to build them. I wanted to go to St. Baaf’s because the Alterpiece the Adoration of the Lamb was there. This three-screened piece of art by Van Eyck is the jewel of Ghent and has a history of being swiped by different people, most recently the Nazis until the Monument Men found it in the salt mines (Thank you, George, Matt and Brad for teaching me that!) It was very pretty, but I’m not knowledgeable enough about art to really get it. We then had some pizza at a cool restaurant next to the castle then hit the road for Brussels.
Taking in Gravensteen Castle.
Brussels
When we got to Brussels, we experienced some crazy traffic. There was a Santa Fun Run tonight and people were either here for that or for all of the Christmas festivities still going on, I’m not sure, but this place was packed. Our hotel is right by the Grand Place square and we are in the thick of it here. After decompressing from the stressful drive, we headed out to explore. We came across two big Christmas markets where I ate fries, chestnuts and hot chocolate. The chestnuts were not great, but I was so excited to try them out. Roasted on an open fire!
This town really takes Christmas seriously because there are lights everywhere around town strung up and the amazing Grand Place has a choreographed light show on all of the 16th century buildings. So cool! We then went on a quest for the little statue of a boy peeing that for some reason is famous. We had to dodge racing Santa-hatted runners but eventually got there. Pretty lame actually. He was wearing something I didn’t recognize today (I guess visiting dignitaries get to pick out his outfit). Kind of silly. After diving through some more of the racers we got back to our cute hotel. I’m hoping to get some sleep as long as the party going on downstairs doesn’t keep me up!
Run, run, Santa!
Luxembourg
Today B and I woke up and scampered off to the train station to head for Luxembourg. We decided that since M and G (P and Mk had to catch flights back to the states) didn’t want to go, we would take the train instead of the car since it would be less stressful and more fun for me.
We had a little confusion at the train station (side note: There is a Luxembourg City, Belgium and Luxembourg City, Luxembourg. Make sure you know which one you buy tickets to) and when we got in line for tickets the lady was slow and so we figured we would miss the train we wanted. She took her time and then said, “The train is two minutes late, go go!” And so we went went and jumped on, and as soon as we sat down the train pulled out. It was a close one!
Luxembourg’s Imperial Crest. At least I think that’s what you call those. #murica
The scenery was not really that great as we were leaving Brussels. There was a lot of graffiti and it looked kind of dumpy. After three hours we started to see things tighten up and then we arrived at Luxembourg City.
It is kind of crazy how you can just pass between countries in the EU now. Anyway, we arrived and were a little befuddled. I paid 1.20 Euro to pee in a men’s room at the train station, since the women’s room was locked and then went and asked some nice guy at the info desk how to get to downtown. Luckily, Luxembourg City is very compact and we just had to walk down the road. We found a tourist info center, got a walking tour handout, and proceeded to walked all over this compact capital. Interesting things about Luxembourg:
Lots of ethnicity, lots of people from Africa (enough that I realized I hadn’t see them in Belgium).
Very classy old town.
The royalty are everywhere. Goofy postcards that who knows who would buy with portraits and family photos.
The guard in front of the palace walked around like the British ones do.
Everything was expensive. We walked down a row of designer stores and didn’t even bother going into any. Gucci, Louis, Cartier, etc. were all there.
There weren’t many striking differences between Belgium and Luxembourg, so it is no wonder they always get lumped together. I did like crossing the pedestrian bridge under the car bridge and the main Cathedral reminded me of the castle in sleeping beauty.
After three hours we made our way back to the train station and hopped on, hoping it would take us to Belgium. Wish granted. We got back and picked up some food at the corner grocery store and after a brief stroll around went back to the hotel. It was rainy and cold so I don’t feel like we were missing much. Tomorrow we’ll go out in the daylight before we head north to Netherlands.
Brussels
Today we left Belgium and returned to the Netherlands. I woke up bright and early (read 9:00 a.m.) and headed out to see the city in the daylight. I wandered over to the Grand Place and was treated to the sun making its presence known on some of the gold capped buildings. This plaza really is pretty spectacular. The buildings are unique with styles from different centuries showing up.
Oh, side note: when we were watching the light show here two nights ago we watched some man drop to his knee and ask his woman to marry him. The friend was filming on her phone and we will be forever on that footage cheering and whooping. I hope they’ll be happy.
Anyway, today it was very quiet in the plaza. I then leisurely wandered the area around our hotel and stumbled upon a bakery. I asked for a “croissant avec creme.” She responded in French whether I wanted to partir or ici and I replied partir. The ruse was up when she told me how much it was going to be, I in fact, cannot speak French so she then said in English. “1.45 Euro.” Madame Anderson would be so proud I remembered that much from 20 years ago in Sophomore French!
Overall I enjoyed Belgium. I liked that I could kind of understand the French and just loved the gabled buildings and canals. The people were friendly and the driving was fun. It is really nice how everyone knows the left lane is for passing and they better get out of it if they aren’t actively passing someone. If only U.S. drivers would follow those rules!!! Le sigh.
Delft
After gathering up our suitcases, we made our way back to the Citron in the parking garage. I had done a little research into cute towns we might want to stop in on the way to Amsterdam. We chose Delft and I think it was perfect.
This town is one of the cutest I’ve been to. It has canals and such but had great cathedrals also. Delft is famous for blue and white pottery and Johannes Vermeer. We arrived and were charmed by cheap prices at several stores and I picked up some Christmas ornaments and a few pieces of the pottery. We then wandered the farmer’s market and ate and drank at Bagels and Beans. Tasty. It was pretty chilly so we didn’t wander much but we did go across Vermeer’s guild and place where he was born. So cool. Girl with a Pearl Earring spoofs were all over. I just love the canals and cool brick buildings.
Adorable side road in adorable Delft.
Weesp
We needed to get to Weesp, an outskirt of Amsterdam, where our hotels were. The GPS failed us once more and we got pretty lost doing so. It should not have taken as long as it did, but we eventually drove the wrong way down a one way ramp, got to the edge of a parking lot and stopped in front of a gate that waited until I just about gave up hope of it opening when it finally did. We then drove down some crazy narrow alley for a few miles and ended up in town, thank goodness.
We knew we didn’t want to deal with driving around Amsterdam so we picked an outskirt town with hotels that had free parking. The best ones we could find were in this little town. Weesp is really small but it looks like it is going to be really cute. I’m excited to see it in the daylight. It has canals all over also, so maybe everywhere does and Delft wasn’t that special? Not likely.
Amsterdam
Yesterday morning the weather said the wintry mix was going to start at 11 a.m. So we decided to try to get to Amsterdam as early as possible to enjoy it without snow. Our town of Weesp (pronounced Vesp) is a quick, 20-minute train ride from the Central Station. We met there at 9 a.m. and the sun was just starting to come up. It sets at 4:30 p.m. so they really only get about 7-8 hours of daylight in the winter. Yuck.
We got to Amsterdam and starting a walking tour. We saw a few interesting houses and cool canals. But then it got really cold. We made our way to a canal boat tour operator and bought tickets for a tour and waited in a warm cafe until it was time. I ordered Dutch pancakes and they were little puffs of dough and a lot of butter. Delicious, of course.
Our canal tour was great. It was covered and narrated so we learned lots. The houses along the canals can’t be changed on the outside or inside to keep the historical integrity. They are all so cute and tall and skinny with the next one squished in rows. The smallest was only two meters wide! They have windows and use tricks like making the top windows smaller so they appear taller than they are. We noticed they still have those lifting crane things on the top and it turns out they still use them when people move! Crazy that they are using the 17th century technology just as they did back then. Although I bet now they have winches rather than the oxen or whatever they used for the brute force.
The weather started to turn at this point and when we finished it was raining on us. We looked all over for a place to eat and got so freezing cold in the snow and wind. We found a place that made soup that did a good job and after my pumpkin sweet potato soup I was okay going outside again. For a few minutes. Weather like this is definitely the downside of a European Christmas.
We went to the red light district and I saw some ladies of the night offering their wares. So weird! There were tons of people walking around and these girls were just sitting in these little glass boxes staring at us all in their seductive clothes (if they had any at all). People were advertising tickets to a live sex show and there was a big line for a prostitute museum. The whole area felt sad to me. I just felt sorry for those girls in the glass boxes with everyone staring at them. That would be horrible. B saw one guy walk out of one of the doors like it was no big deal. So weird that we all know he just got serviced. At this point, it was really coming down and G and M called it and went back to Weesp.
Freezing cold temperatures call for desperate measures.
We pressed on and went to a cafe and got a pot of tea to warm up. When we went out again, I was still miserable after seeing the Van Gogh museum line was outrageously long, so I decided to take a hard pass on it. There was no way I was waiting 1.5 hours in the rain for that! Instead we went to the Modern Art Stedjek museum.
Neither B nor I really like/understand modern art but there were some pieces from the 1800-1900s in the permanent collection so we went for it. And there was no line and we were instantly warm so it was worth the 17 Euro to me right there. It started out rough with stupid (sorry!) modern art pieces, but then it got better. It was interesting because this collection had stuff by Van Gogh, Picasso, Cezanne, Chagall, but it also had stuff by women contemporaries, some of whom were their muses or even were doing the techniques before the guys but no one knows about them. Typical. I liked a lady, Suze Robertson. I hope she has shows sometimes. Also interesting is that this museum hid a lot of the art from the Nazis to protect the pieces from their greedy hands. It saved a lot of pieces.
After the museum, we went outside and it was like a different day. The cold, windy rain had stopped and we could walk around without freezing. We went to the I am Amsterdam sign and then headed back to the train station. We were waylaid at a restaurant with a yummy burger and a cook who listened to groovy reggae tunes and danced around and sang. Very Pleasant experience.
We then wandered back to the train station through a cute lit up road with lots of stores and Christmas lights. It is interesting to see the old gabled buildings with McDonald’s or H & Ms in the bottom. I’m glad they can use these so they don’t fall into disrepair. After such a long, cold day I was so happy to make it to the train station and back to our place.
Tomorrow is supposed to be warmer and dryer but we are taking it easy and won’t catch a train back to Amsterdam until later since we have tickets to the Anne Frank House tonight at 8:45 p.m. Hopefully, the rain holds off!
Weesp Again
We decided to sleep in a bit and relax after our previous long day. We woke up and explored our town of Weesp a little bit. B had noticed a WW2 monument across the canal from our place so we trudged across the Brug (bridge in Dutch…Bruges, lots of bridges, get it?). The monument was a bust, we didn’t know what we were looking at and it was labeled 1860s, so a little early for WW2. However, it did give us a viewpoint of Weesp and we noticed two windmills pretty close. So we decided to go check them out.
When we walked up to the first one, it was moving around, so cool! Some guy was coming out and climbing on a bike and pointed and said ‘go, it’s okay.’ So we went on up and walked into a moving windmill!
There was a little gift shop and we got some really cute things and some legit pizza meal (we think) that was ground right there. When we were paying the little Dutch ladies working stopped filling up their bags of flour and tried to ring us up. They were pretty old and the cash register computer seemed a bit much for them, but they eventually got it. They gestured we could go up the stairs/ladder thing and check out the mill. Up we went two flights and watched as the belts spun around and ground up something. It was so loud but so, so cool!
Then, to top it off, some guy who worked there scampered up to get something and we noticed he was wearing the wood clog shoes! How perfect! We had bought some bread so we swung into the grocery store and picked up some cheese to make sandwiches before we went into Amsterdam.
Amsterdam, Part Deux
Luckily the rain held off for the most part the rest of the day and it was a good 20 degrees warmer than it was the day before. We wandered all over the old town of Amsterdam back and forth between the small cobblestone streets and canals. We hit up a few bike stores and I got two new bells and a bike bag and some lights. I also took away a vow to bike around more like the Dutch. It is crazy how they just cruise along and pedestrians have to watch out for them. They even have little bike lanes with little bike stop lights.
We visited the Dutch Begijnhof, which, like the Belgian one, was a place for single women who didn’t want to be nuns went to live. B and I would totally fit in there, so I felt an affinity to it. I really learned to appreciate Amsterdam this day, since the day before was touch and go because I was so miserable in the weather. But it really improved and was really fun to walk all around and look and what was going down. I still don’t like the red light stuff—it is so depressing to see poor women and gross men. Bleh.
Dutch bikes are the coolest!
G and M met up with us and we popped into an Irish pub for dinner before our time at the Anne Frank House museum. Note to future visitors of Amsterdam: you MUST buy your tickets to the Anne Frank House museum on line and well before your trip. They sell out super fast. Dinner was good and as we walked to the museum in the dark we enjoyed taking peeks into people’s houses on the upper floors of the cool houses since their lights were on and it was dark outside. I can’t imagine living there—and probably would never be able to since it would be so expensive.
The Anne Frank house was really moving. They lead you through the part of the building that was Otto Frank’s pectin factory and you learn about the situation and the people involved. Then you go through the secret passageway—a false bookcase and then you are in their living quarters. I can’t imagine living like that for two years. They had to be so quiet during the day and never go outside for two years. So hard. The people who helped them were so brave.
What was interesting is the secret annex wouldn’t have been that big of a secret, since the back of the building is clearly bigger than the factory. If someone would have gone in there they would have seen that. I’m glad there were brave people in the world who decided to help them. I wonder who told on them—-but I guess everyone does. Of the eight people in hiding, only Otto survived. It must have been so horrible for him when he tried so hard to keep his family safe. The whole thing is just awful. Anne and her mom and sister went through Auschwitz, the most horrible place I’ve ever been. What that must have been like for everyone, it is just too terrible to think of. Anyway, after the museum we walked back to the train station and took in our last views of the city.
Our 8:45 reservation at the Anne Frank House was one of the last spots available.
Amsterdam Schipol Airport: last stop for European Christmas
This morning we just barely got our bags to close (after loading them up with chocolate and stroopwafels) and drove the Citron to the airport. The GPS was great when it worked and really awful when it didn’t. We had another hiccup today and decided to just turn it off and trust the road signs. Luckily, they steered us right and we made it back to the airport. I successfully drove in three countries and didn’t hurt anybody or wreck the car. There was that slight roll forward into the parking garage wall, but we weren’t going fast enough to do any damage. Phew!
I’ve shown my passport to more people at this airport than I ever have before—it has been quite repetitive. At least five different people who worked for Delta and then we had to answer questions about our travel by some Dutch people. Pretty intense. I guess this is the heightened security I’ve heard about.
Conclusion (New Years Eve, over Greenland)
I really did enjoy this trip and I enjoyed having more people to travel with. It’s changed things a lot, but has been a lot of fun too. B and I were getting used to our travel routine, so it was great to shake things up a bit. I decided that going somewhere over Christmas is really the way to go for people like B and me. You can celebrate with family a little early and then experience a holiday in an entirely new way. A Dutch gentleman mentioned that the Dutch Christmas markets were nothing compared to the German ones, so….challenge accepted. Here I come, Germany!
G & M trying to recover from a totally tubular vacation.
I mentioned a couple of weeks ago that I was heading to Arizona to celebrate my birthday. I love traveling to Arizona during the winter months. Even when the temperatures drop below what the locals prefer (as they did on my trip), they are far …
A few weeks ago, my sister and I flew from Boise to Sacramento, where we met up with my cousin from Utah. Our destination was our Grandma’s and Aunt’s house in Northern California. I’m very lucky in that my sister and cousin are also my …
Yeah for your birthday! I do not know very many people who enjoy getting older (besides kids that is). Regardless of whether you embrace getting older, pretend it isn’t happening or actively work to prevent it, those birthdays roll around once a year no matter what. I do not necessarily embrace getting older, but I figure you might as well enjoy your birthday. It is the only day you get to be selfish and no one minds. Official holidays are great, but you share them with everyone else in the state, country or planet. Since you may only know a couple of people who share your birthday (if that), it makes the day of your birth unique and special. (I am sorry if your birthday falls on a holiday.)
Celebrate your birthday with a trip
I suggest you take the time to make your birthday all about you. Naturally, I suggest you take a trip to celebrate. Since my birthday falls in February, I like to head somewhere a lot warmer than Idaho. This year, I am headed to Arizona to spend the big day (and weekend) with my girlfriends. Technically, I could visit them any old weekend (and I have). But it makes my birthday so much more fun if I plan a trip around it. I end up looking forward to it instead of dreading it. Growing up, I looked forward to snow days on my birthday. Now I look forward to a new adventure.
Birthday horseback riding in Hawaii.
Be creative in your planning
I like having a February birthday because travel is very affordable. Whether I go to another cold climate or head south, it is not too hard to find a decent price on a plane ticket. The crowds are thinner as well. R’s birthday falls in the middle of March. Unfortunately, that is the middle of spring break season and it can be difficult to find decent prices on flights, hotels and rental cars. Even if you want to go to places that are not considered spring break destinations, it just costs more to travel in March (same with summer and the holidays). If your birthday happens to fall during a peak travel time, start planning early. Also, you may have to think outside the box a bit. R had a great idea for her birthday this year, but flight prices would not cooperate. After a couple of weeks of research and brainstorming, she came up with a new, great idea: road trip to the other side of our beautiful state, rent a cabin and get spa treatments in Jackson Hole. The right adventure for your birthday is out there, you just have to find it.
Our friend C’s birthday falls between Christmas and New Year’s. If we could convince her to leave home for the holidays, she could go on an epic birthday trip each year. But alas, she is not quite ready to give up her family traditions. And that is okay. It is her birthday so she gets to do what she wants.
Acadia National Park in February. Sure, it’s cold. But it is beautiful and the crowds are nonexistent.
Milestone birthdays are great excuses for big trips
I have been known to go a little crazy on milestone birthdays. After I turned 29, I figured I might as well start planning something epic for 30. I was not even sure I minded turning 30, but I wanted to make sure I had fun plans just in case. The morning I turned the big 3-0, I woke up, put on ski boots and hit the slopes of Zermatt, Switzerland. It was sunny and warm and I will never forget the views of those blues skies and snow-covered mountains. The next year, our travel buddy S turned 30. She remembered our time in Switzerland and decided to make big plans herself. The morning she turned 30, we went scuba diving in Bali. (Side note: even without the skiing-in-Switzerland thing, I was A-Okay turning 30. However, when my little brother reached that particular milestone, I had a much harder time coping.)
Happy 30th birthday to S!
Planning and saving are crucial
That is the interesting thing about birthdays (milestone or not), you know they are coming. There are plenty of big events in life (e.g. promotions, kids, marriage, etc.) that you never see coming. But a birthday has a definite countdown. That makes it really easy to plan for. Last year’s birthday was 35. It was not a major milestone, but I was at a point in my career and my personal life where I could celebrate it in a major way—and I took full advantage. I spent the entire month of February traveling around Australia. On the actual birthday, I did a reefsleep on the Great Barrier Reef. It was an experience of a lifetime and I am so grateful I used my birthday as an excuse to sign up. It took me two years save and plan for that month-long trip, but it was worth every penny saved and every extra hour worked. You can bet I am already thinking about 40 and what I want to do for that. Do I want to turn 40? Hell no. But I am going to regardless, so I might as well plan something fun.
Birthday selfie out on the Great Barrier Reef reefsleep.
Seize the moment
My coworker just celebrated his 50th birthday. He mentioned, probably around his 47th or 48th birthday, that he wanted to do something big for 50. Hawaii was brought up several times. I whole-heartedly agreed and encouraged him to make plans. It was actually frustrating to see the big day coming closer and closer without him committing to anything. (Side note: I know this coworker well enough to know that there were no financial, personal or professional reasons for his lack of commitment.) He did finally decide to take a trip to Texas to celebrate. He did not take the trip on his actual birthday, but he still called it his 50th birthday trip and he was happy with his choice, which is all that matters I guess. His experience taught me an important lesson though: if you do not seize the moment and make plans, birthdays, even the milestones, come and go just like any other day.
Seizing the (birth)day in Zermatt, Switzerland!
Non-travel fun can still be had
I realize that it is not feasible for everyone to go on a trip, big or small, for their birthday. If funds are holding you back, I would like to point out that even the smallest travel fund grows over time and if it takes you five years to save up a for a special birthday trip, I think it will be worth it. However, you may be dealing with unavoidable life circumstances that make travel unrealistic. If that is the case, then there are plenty of ways to make your day special. At the very least, one should take the day off work (in my opinion). I even know of a company that gives its employees a holiday on their birthday. It is a day to do what you want to do. Sleep in, get a massage, throw a party, treat yourself to a fancy dinner, get a manicure…or do nothing at all. It is your day to do what you want.
Conclusion
Your birthday is your special day. And whether you like it or not, that special day comes around once a year. I suggest you plan something fun. If you can swing it, I suggest you plan a trip. It will give you something to look forward to and is the perfect excuse to get out of town.
On our trip to the Azores, I talked about how much I appreciated the camera in my new phone. Now that I’ve had my phone for a little while longer, I’ve been able to test it out on a few trips and have come to …
We have made some changes to our travel blog, our little corner of the internet. After a couple of years writing blog posts, we find ourselves with quite a bit of information. And unfortunately, it is not all that easy to sort through and navigate. …
As we might have mentioned once or twice, we spent Christmas this year in the Benelux region of Europe. Apparently, these countries are pretty small and close to each other geographically and culturally, so they get their own cute acronym. (BElgium, NEtherlands, LUXembourg.) We had a fantastic time over the holiday season and this post highlights ten reasons to visit Europe at Christmas.
Reasons to visit Europe at Christmas
#1: Lights
People in this region know how to do Christmas lights right. We didn’t see one blow-up Santa or the Grinch. Instead, lights are strung tastefully on the already adorable buildings. This is even more impressive when you think about how the buildings are mainly tall and skinny and you’d have to get real creative to string lights on the highest gables. In Amsterdam, residents who lived on the houseboats in the canals decorated their homes (?) boats (?) so when you looked down the canals you’d see twinkling in your peripheral vision.
Christmas lights done well.
City centers were the main concentration of lights and nothing was better than the Grand Place in Brussels. This is a must see for Christmas in this area. So cool!
#2: Carolers
As we learned in the movie, Elf, “the best way to spread Christmas Cheer, is singing loud for all to hear.” Well, Christmas cheer was around us several times on this trip thanks to random Christmas Carolers. The funniest one was when we were walking down the street in Ypres, Belgium, and heard music coming at us. Turns out a group of people dressed as polar bears were making the rounds playing different instruments.
#3: Ice skating
Most of the towns we visited had small ice skating rinks set up in the center of town. It was really sweet to see all of the kiddos out there having a great time as they circled the rink. A few of us in the group were slightly injured and not quite up to ice-skating form, so we didn’t actually skate ourselves, but it warmed my heart every time I saw one of these rinks set up.
Ice skating rinks abound.
#4: Desserts
Alright, in all honesty, we didn’t eat any desserts that were specific to Christmas. However, as Christmas is the time to indulge in all matter of deliciousness anyway, it was terrific to be able to partake of these delicacies in a place that just does them so much better than we do here in the states. I have no idea why pastries taste so much better in Europe (maybe massive quantities of butter?) but they just do. Pretty much every meal ended with some sort of waffle, doughnut or chocolate.
Stroopwafel. Mmmmmm.
#5: Good will
Christmas is a busy time to visit Benelux. We definitely didn’t have the place to ourselves, and usually massive amounts of tourists make for grumpy locals. But at Christmas time, it seemed like everyone, no matter if they were visitors or residents, was happy. On Christmas Eve we had reservations for dinner at a small, fancy place. The staff were all dressed up and at one point they all headed outside to get a group picture. I bet stuff like that doesn’t happen in the middle of the summer rush of tourist season.
#6: Hot chocolate
Belgian chocolate has a well-earned reputation for being some of the best chocolate in the world. During Christmas time, you can just straight up eat the chocolate bars and truffles. Or…you can drink your chocolate, liquified, with a little milk. I’m sure you can order hot chocolate at most restaurants throughout the year. But at Christmas time, you can purchase cups of it in the street at the markets. Instead of starting with hot water and adding powdered sugar (?) cocoa (?) whatever it is, hot chocolate in Benelux starts with steamed milk, most likely whole, and then chocolate is mixed in. That’s it–chocolate and milk. At chocolate shops we found wooden spoons with a massive hunk of solid chocolate on the end that you can take home and warm up your own milk, stirring until the chocolate dissolves. I have to be honest–it’s hard to go back to our hot chocolate after having this stuff.
Hot chocolate cups. Just add milk.
#7: Festive atmosphere
You can just feel the merriment in the air. Probably because they have fun things set up like amusement rides and races. I’m actually not 100% sure whether the carnival-type atmosphere was just for Christmas, but it looked fairly transient, so I’m thinking so. Around the markets there were fun things like carousels and Ferris wheels. In Brussels we had to wait for about ten minutes to cross the street to our hotel because hundreds of runners dressed up in Santa hats were racing in a 5K. I defy people to be unhappy seeing that many Santas.
Run, run, Santa!
#8: Shopping
I don’t really ever need an excuse to shop, but shopping in Europe at Christmas was a goal before I left. We lived in Germany when I was a kid and my mom got some great wooden ornaments that we still use on her Christmas tree that I just love. I wanted to see if I could find some that were similar. Sadly, I didn’t, but I did get some great ornaments that will look smashing on the tree next year. Most stores had cute Christmas items put out and as the dollar was doing pretty good next to the Euro, we had some fun shopping.
#9: Churches
There seem to be cathedrals on every corner in some of the cities. In Ghent, I had my heart set on seeing the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, which lives in St. Bavo’s Cathedral. We had a slight problem by not being able to locate which, of the five cathedrals we came across in a quarter of a mile, was St. Bavos. The point is, cathedrals in Europe are frequent, beautiful and inspiring. It seemed especially nice to visit these during Christmas time. We had hoped to join a Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve, but that didn’t work out. Next time!
Ostend Cathedral all dressed up.
#10: Christmas markets
When it comes to the reasons to visit Europe at Christmas, I saved the best for last. Christmas markets consist of cute little wooden sheds all stacked up next to each other in rows. People sell a variety of knick knacks, handicrafts, beer and food and everyone just mills around and soaks up the Christmas cheer. We visited markets in most of the cities we came to; some had the ice skating rinks nearby, most had music playing and all had Christmas trees placed around decoratively. It was so wonderful! I spoke with a local who said you have to go to Germany to really experience the Christmas markets, but I’m not sure how these will be topped. (I’m all for accepting that challenge, though.)
Update: we have now experienced Christmas markets in Germany and have a whole post dedicated to that experience.
Reasons to travel to Europe at Christmas conclusion
There are plenty of reasons to visit Europe at Christmas. We were barely able to scratch the surface of things to see and do, but visiting during Christmas time added an extra element of specialness to our trip. I think I might have been converted; I told B that Christmas in Europe might be my new thing.
Unfortunately, not-so-fun travel moments happen. It is not all hearts and flowers and there are definitely some unpleasant moments on the road. For me, those parts pale in comparison to all of the fun stuff. However, I think it might be worth mentioning the not-so-fun …